4th of July at the Graves

If you ever wondered what a pirate’s Fourth of July celebration would look like, this might be just what you’d see. Gather over two dozen rowdy old salts, sailors, divers and boat captains together at private lighthouse in the middle of Boston Harbor and let ruckus begin. The Waller’s are incredibly generous in inviting a handful of friends and family out to Graves Lighthouse for their annual 4th of July bash and they throw one hell of a party. From fresh local oysters at the Oyster Bah, shrimp cocktail, salads and snacks, all while the grills were on non stop with mouth watering burgers, steaks, ribs, turkey tips and chicken, there was no shortage of grinds that "broke da mouth” over and over again.

Once you leave Boston Harbor, passing Fort Independence, Deer Island and Nix’s Mate (where they used to gibbet the Pirates after hanging on Boston Common up until 1835) you cross waters dotted with dangerous shallows and rock piles like the Roaring Bulls and the Devil’s Back until eventually arriving at the Graves. The Graves is a very ominous name that sparks imagination but was actually named after Admiral Thomas Graves, a British officer in the Royal Navy rather than the ideas that most come up with. After arriving and anchoring the boats we are greeted by a friend on a dinghy rowing out to us to ferry people, food, drinks and supplies onto shore, which isn’t much of a shore at all, with the whole island only being 1.8 acres of crudely piled rocks and boulders rising 15 feet above the sea.

Upon arrival to the landing point at mid tide, we rowed right up to the bottom steps and clambered up to the base deck where we easily slipped right into the fun. Climbing up to the top of the lighthouse is a must do, ideally before you're too full of rum to properly grasp the ladder up to the bottom floor. On the spiraling romp up to the top, each floor is filled with intentionally placed relics and artifacts secured by the Waller’s over the years all with a purpose and a story. Upon reaching the top you’re in the kitchen, stop for a snack… you made it! Viewing Boston from what was once a lonely outpost for a single lighthouse keeper to just a few men for long periods of time has a feeling of gravity to accompany the amazing sight.

After getting back to the main deck there was loads of mingling, partying, eating and of course practicing our aim with a procured supply of black powder loaded into a mounted cannon in case of attack. As the afternoon carried on a cloudy cold front blew in from the south and the wind started to lift our feet to blow us home, the boats left as soon as they had came and with just as little notice. With spirits high, bellies full and a little less balanced most of us said our goodbyes and made our way back to the sea. While a few would stay at the lighthouse for another two days it was eventually our time to leave with eyes to the horizon for the next chance to visit Graves Lightstation.

-G Lewandowski

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The Legend of Nix’s Mate

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Half Tide Hangout